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Discussion of the character, technological and historical significance of a wool tunic in damask weave from Egypt, now in the Abegg Stiftung, Bern.
The first part of this article is a very brief introduction to the collection of archaeological textiles from Egypt in the Museum of Cultures, Basel. The second part focuses on one of the highlights of the collection, a Late Antique tunic fragment with a rare allegorical scene in an architectural Framework.
2021 •
Encyclopedia of Archaeology
Bier and Dusenbury, Textiles, Encyclopedia of Archaeology (2008), vol. 3, pp. 2119-21252008 •
Textiles and archaeology have a complex relationship. Textiles are pervasive in virtually all societies, but their pervasive presence and cultural importance is not reflected in the archaeological record. As products of technology, objects of trade, markers of identity, and bearers of constructed meanings, and sometimes as works of art, textiles can convey massive amounts of information about human societies and their economies. They represent a range of forms and functions; they are expressive of cultural ideals and norms, government decrees, and human ideals, desires, and aspirations. Textiles articulate relationships among individuals, identities, and cultural groupings. Representing sophisticated understandings of materials and their properties, and manipulated through diverse technologies, textiles embody human ingenuity, creativity, and pragmatic solutions to everyday problems of the human condition. In spite of their profound significance, they factor minimally in the archaeological record due to a variety of factors such as their fragile nature, organic composition, patterns of use and wear, and general tendency to decompose in most environments. Article explores what we know of textiles and archaeology in Egypt and the Near, Asia, and the Americas.
Zea Books
Tackling the technical history of the textiles of El-Deir, Kharga Oasis, the Western Desert of Egypt2020 •
New scientific evidence of trade in raw materials and finished goods for the knitted textile trade is emerging from a scientific study of more than 100 extant knitted caps from the 16th century. These long-overlooked archaeological data are being re-excavated from museum archives for analysis in innovative ways and made available for wider study online. The woollen caps are recorded in European collections as having been shipwrecked, deliberately concealed, preserved in peat bogs, or discarded as beyond use in far-flung locations across Europe – as far north as Denmark and as far south as Croatia. This paper reports the fleece’s journey from the sheep’s back to the sixteenth century citizen’s head based on a variety of evidence, including protectionist legislation, microscopic investigation of the materials used, and modern-day craft expertise. Not only the method of knitting but the choice of yarn, spin, ply, and surface treatments such as fulling, napping and shearing have been successfully recreated, together with the specialist equipment required. Campaigns to protect the capping trade across Europe yielded clues to the proto-industrial settings in which the wool was transformed into a functional fulled fabric providing protection against the weather but also emulating the dress of the elite. Experimental archaeological work with comparative and contemporary craftwork has shed light on the processes required to create the mock velvet nap, which made these caps desirable to those prevented from wearing silk by sumptuary law. The use of x-ray micro-computed tomography scanning as part of an interdisciplinary framework of investigation has shown new ways to explore the materials used to knit and finish the caps. These techniques build on pioneering work with fibre analysis in the 1980s, which identified wool but could not determine specific fleece types and more recent studies which differentiated between early sheep breeds. This new evidence explains how the sheep fleece was crucial to the final appearance of the caps in wear. The knitted caps represent an astonishing body of evidence for the manufacture of ordinary men’s clothing and demonstrate the importance of knitting in creating an iconic item of lower-class dress in the Early Modern era.
Archaeological Textiles Review
Textiles from Zawaydah, Naqada, Upper Egypt (2019, ATR 61: 14-23)2019 •
The article presents the results of textile and fibre analysis of four textile fragments recovered during archaeological excavations at the site of Zawaydah, Naqada, in Upper Egypt. Although the main phase of the occupation at this site is ascribed to the Pre- and Protodynastic period (c. fourth millennium BC), the structural and fibre analyses of the textiles and the subsequent radiocarbon dating of two fragments provide evidence of later phases of site use, to be assigned to the Middle Kingdom, possibly the New Kingdom, and the Middle Ages (second millennium BC and second millennium AD). The article offers an insight into the Egyptian textiles of these later time periods at the site, and highlights the importance of detailed structural and fibre analysis for acquiring dating information and informing the decisions to carry out further analyses, such as radiocarbon dating.
Vietnamese Journal of Radiology and Nuclear Medicine
Điều Trị Can Thiệp Rò Động Tĩnh Mạch Màng Cứng Xoang Hang Qua Tái Thông Xoang Đá Dưới Tại Bệnh Viện Bạch MaiThe Proceedings of the Materials and Mechanics Conference
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Expert Systems with Applications
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